Sew Spoiled Weekender Travel Tote

I have just finished a new tote bag.

I first saw this bag on the cover of the Feb/March issue of Sew News and thought it was so cute. I bought the magazine for this pattern. However, as I was considering making it I decided to check the website of Sew News for this pattern to see if any helpful comments had been left by others who had made the bag. Link It turned out that people had had trouble with the instructions given. Apparently, measurements given for some of the pieces for the bag were incorrect and the instructions were a little unclear. However, the designer of the pattern provided a pdf with some of the pattern pieces to help sewers and provided the correct measurements. I printed out the pattern pieces but I put the project on hold because I was a little unsure of the pattern. A few months later I stumbled across the blog of the designer of the pattern, Leah Williams, Sew Spoiled and found that she had posted a 19 page pdf with the pattern and detailed instructions. It was very nice of the designer to provide this for free. It seems that with all of the troubles with the pattern in Sew News she wanted to clear everything up. I really appreciated this because the bag is so cute and I really wanted to make it.

The review below is for the pdf pattern provided by Leah Williams on her blog Sew Spoiled.

Pattern Description:
From Sew News: Hit the road with a roomy pleated tote that's perfect for a long weekend or last minute road trip. Stow your camera, cell phone, cosmetic bag and other essentials in the handy interior pocket.

Pattern Sizing:
One Size. Finished measurements: 20"w x 13.5"h x 4"d

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, very much so.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
The instructions were easy to follow. I glanced at them occaisonally after reading through them once. If you have made a bag before you will only need them for creating the front panels.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Likes:
Style - not just a boring rectangle tote.
Size - it is very generous, you could fit a lot of stuff in it.
Dislikes:
It took forever to cut out all the pieces. There are sixteen pieces that need to be cut out (not including the interfacing). However, once the pieces are cut and interfaced, it sews up pretty quickly.
There is some waste when cutting the front panels to the correct shape. You have to sew three pieces of fabric together then bring the two outside pieces to the centre to form the pleat and then cut this into a trapezoid shape. There is quite a bit that you have to cut off.

Fabric Used:
100% cotton denim from Fabricland and Amy Butler cotton print from her Daisy Chain line. I interfaced the exterior, lining and pockets with heavyweight non-woven fusible interfacing from Fabricland.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I only used two fabrics instead of the five suggested.
I added a zippered pocket and more pouch pockets to the lining.
I added a swivel hook for attaching my keys to so they don't get lost in the bottom of the bag.
I used top stitching thread for all of the top stitching.





Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I don't think I will sew it again. I would recommend it to patient sewers who don't mind cutting out a lot of pieces.

Conclusion:
Roomy tote that is easy to sew.

Warm Weather Dressing

I had a job interview today and the weather was so warm (34 degrees Celsius) and I needed a professional looking top that was cool to wear. So I made this top, McCall's 5977, today:





McCall's 5977

Pattern Description:
Pullover tops A, B, C, D have neck and armhole bindings and stitched hem; top A has two layers of pleated front ruffles; top B has three tiers of front ruffles; top C has cascading front ruffle; top D has neck ruffle and short drapey sleeves.
I made view A.

Pattern Sizing:
A5 (6-8-10-12-14), EE (14-16-18-20). I made a size 8 and graded to a 14 at the hips.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes but I didn't really need to follow them. It's a pretty simple top to make.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked that is so simple but looked stylish because of the ruffles.

Fabric Used:
100% cotton Swiss Dot with woven checks.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I only used one layer of ruffle instead of two. I bound the neckline and armholes differently than suggested in the instructions. For the neckline binding I used a cotton knit that I ironed so that it looked like double fold bias tape and just sandwiched the bodice between it. And for the armholes I used packaged bias tape and I just unfolded one side, sewed this side to the armholes, flipped it to the inside and then stitched it down. This way the binding isn't seen.



Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I will be sewing it again but another view. I would definitely recommend it to others.

Conclusion:
Great pattern that is simple but looks good.

My Grad Gala Dress

In March there was a Grad Gala for Teachers' College to celebrate that the year was almost over and we were almost teachers. I decided to make a dress for it so looked in my stash to see what I could use. I decided on a magenta silk dupioni that I got from Denver Fabrics before it was bought out. I picked this fabric before I found out that the theme of the Gala was "Black and White" but I figured why not go ahead and stand out a little bit. For the dress I wanted something with a vintage feel to it and picked Simplicity 2444.



Simplicity 2444
Pattern Description:
Misses' Dress with collar and sleeve variations.





Pattern Sizing:
4-12, I made size 8.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Sort of, I made some changes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
The instructions were easy to follow but how they have you put it together, you can't try on the dress to check for fit, etc. until it is almost completely finished. You sew the front to the front skirt and then the back to the back skirt, then the front to the back. As well, the instructions for yardage give you the yardage by which design elements you are using. If you go by this and use the same fabric for all the design elements, you will have bought too much fabric.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I loved the vintage feel to it. It's kind of 1950's, 1960's ish. I also loved that it has pockets. One thing that I disliked is that this dress is unlined and I wanted it lined because it's made out of silk.

Fabric Used:
100% silk dupioni from the old Denver Fabrics. I got it during their going out of business sale for a song. I underlined the bodice and skirt with silk organza from Thai Silks. The pattern doesn't include a lining, but I added one because organza and dupioni can be scratchy. It's made out of bemberg lining material.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I shortened it at the shoulders, cut a different neckline, added a lining, didn't use the facing pieces, and shortened the hem by 1 3/4". I put in an exposed zipper to make it a little edgy and not too princessy. I also made a belt for the dress.





Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I would definitely recommend this pattern. It's easy to make and looks really cute. I'm graduating from teachers' college and we had a grad gala and I needed a dress. This was perfect for the occasion.

Conclusion:
This is a great pattern that is well drafted and easy to put together.

Here is a picture of me wearing the dress:

Comparison of Jalie Low Rise Panties

Comparison of Jalie Low Rise Panties (2564 and 2568)

From the patterns:
2564: View C Bikini (low rise) or brief (high rise) finished with visible fold-over elastic, stretch lace trim or fold-under (1 cm) knit elastic.
2568: View B bikini with lace-trimmed waistband and picot elastic at leg openings. Panties are offered with a choice of high or low waistline.

Here is a photo that shows the two patterns and how they are different:


So obviously, 2564 has a high waist and skinny coverage on the backside and 2568 has a lower waist and more coverage on the backside.

As well, the panties are constructed differently. 2564 has a separate crotch piece so that when it is attached the seams are enclosed. 2568 has the crotch piece and the front as one and so when it is sewn the back crotch seam is enclosed but the front of the crotch lining piece is not sewn down except at the sides.

Here are views of the panties made up (2564 can be made using FOE or Fold-under elastic as there are different pattern pieces designed for each type. 2568 is designed for fold-under elastic. I used fold-under elastic on both, except at the waist were I used FOE.):





Conclusion after trying them on: I like the higher rise of 2564 but the coverage is too skimpy on the backside. 2568 seem low but the backside coverage is much better. I think if I were to make bikini panties again I would use 2568 but just make the waist higher.

New Panties

I just finished some new underwear. I made 3 pairs, another pair of the hipsters from Jalie 2568 and two bikini styles; one from Jalie 2568 and one from Jalie 2564.

Jalie 2568
Pattern Description:
Camisole with lace-trimmed rounded square front neckline. The scoop back neckline and armholes are finished with picot edge elastic. Hipster (A) with lace-trimmed waistband and hemmed leg openings (no elastic). Leg opening can be finished with picot edge elastic for better support. Bikini (B) with lace trimmed waistband and picot elastic at leg openings. Both panties are offered with a choice of high or low waistline. Brazilian hipster (C) designed for wide stretch lace and available in adult sizes only.

I made view A (navy blue pair) - hipster - with FOE at the waist and lingerie elastic at the leg openings and view B (white pair) - low waist bikini - with FOE at the waist and picot edge elastic at the leg openings.





Pattern Sizing:
F-FF 22" to 53" hips. I made size U (39" hips) for both.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
The instructions are very clear with short written instructions and detailed drawings.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the style and fit of the hipster panties. They are just like the American Eagle underwear I buy. I also love Jalie patterns. They are well drafted and the results look very RTW. I don't like the bikini's as much but that is just personal taste and has nothing to do with the pattern.

Fabric Used:
Navy and white cotton lycra knit (90% cotton/10% lycra) for the panties and a beige cotton lycra knit (90% cotton/10% lycra) for the crotch lining.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I extended the crotch lining so that there was more coverage towards the front. Also instead of using lace on the waistband, I used Fold-over elastic.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I have sewn the hipster view many times in the past and will make many more.

Conclusion:
Great underwear pattern.

Jalie 2564



Pattern Description: View A: Long camisole with built-in shelf bra and adjustable straps. View B: Double front pull-on bra with adjustable straps. Both tops can be finished with fold-over elastic or stretch lace trim. View C: Bikini or brief finished with visible fold-over elastic, stretch lace trim or fold-under 1 cm (3/8") knit elastic.

I made view C - bikini with FOE at the waistline and fold-under elastic (picot edge elastic) at the leg openings.

Pattern Sizing:F-FF 22" hips to 53" hips. I made size U (39" hips).

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?The instructions are very clear with short written instructions and detailed drawings.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked that the style is very current, no granny panties here. And I liked that it was a Jalie pattern which means it went together very well, is well drafted and the result looks very RTW but the coverage on the backside is a lot less than I would like.

Fabric Used:
White cotton lycra knit (90% cotton/10% lycra) for the panties and a beige cotton lycra knit (90% cotton/10% lycra) for the crotch lining.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
No changes other than to use FOE at the waistband.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I don't think I would sew these again because I would like more coverage but if you want a skimpy bikini panty this is the pattern to use.

Conclusion:
Good pattern but not my style.